Agiocochook: The Home of the great spirit

The Wind's Whimsy

“Damn it. There she goes—my prospect for a much-needed rest,” Prabal muttered, his voice mingling with the erratic wind of Mt. Washington, the tallest peak in the northeastern USA, standing at a modest 6,288 feet. Though dwarfed by the Himalayan standards, the mountain's reputation for capricious weather was legendary. On this fateful November evening, the mountain seemed determined to challenge Prabal's resolve.

Prabal watched as his tent, a flimsy sanctuary against the elements, was unceremoniously whisked away by an invisible hand. It was a sight that should have induced panic, but instead, a bemused resignation settled over him. This was just another twist in the tempestuous tale his life had become.

A Pilgrim's Journey

He had embarked on this pilgrimage to escape the cold war brewing at home. His marriage, once a haven, had become a battlefield of misunderstandings and silent accusations. The journey to New Hampshire had been long—a nine-hour overnight drive through landscapes that gradually shifted from the mundane to the magnificent.

As dawn broke, New Hampshire unveiled its treasures: rolling hills that shimmered with morning dew, snow-capped peaks that gleamed like ancient sentinels, streams of crystal-clear water that sang as they tumbled over colorful rocks, and forests that stood in solemn preparation for winter. This was the same area where he and his wife had once spent a blissful week, their hearts in harmony with nature's rhythms.

A particular stream captivated him with its clarity, and he decided to follow it to its source, a symbolic act of seeking clarity for his own troubled soul. GPS indicated a two-day hike to reach the source and return, a prospect that filled him with a sense of purpose. He parked his car, gathered his supplies, and set off.  

The Ascent

The hike was arduous, the path strewn with silver-grey boulders that glistened with quartz. The whispering wind and the stream’s murmur were his only companions. The climb was steep, at times nearly vertical, but he welcomed the physical exertion. It mirrored the internal struggle he was determined to overcome.

As he ascended, the vegetation transformed from alpine to tundra, the trees giving way to bush-like plants. The landscape expanded before him—rolling hills, deep gorges, glacial lakes, meadows, and forests, all remnants of an ancient ice age. It was a scene of primordial beauty that resonated with his primal need for peace.

The higher he climbed, the more treacherous the path became. Icy patches concealed under a thin layer of snow threatened his footing. At one point, he nearly lost his balance, saved only by a quick grab at a nearby rock. His muscles ached from the effort, and his breath came in ragged gasps as the air thinned.

By evening, he reached the stream's source, a small lake fed by underground reservoirs and melting snow. He began to set up his tent, but fate had other plans. A fierce gust of wind snatched the tent from his grasp, sending it spiraling into a deep gorge. Left with only his sleeping bag and a few provisions, he prepared for a long, cold night.

The Whispering Wind

Darkness fell swiftly, bringing with it a biting chill. The sky, a canvas of twinkling stars, offered little warmth. His phone showed 21 degrees Fahrenheit, a perilous temperature given the strong wind. Prabal knew he had to stay awake to avoid hypothermia.

He attempted to light a fire, but his lighter broke. Huddled in his sleeping bag, he sipped brandy sparingly, knowing he couldn't afford to get drunk and fall asleep, that would surely lead to hypothermia and his freeze to death. He gazed at the stars, thoughts drifting to his wife and children, a pang of regret mixing with the cold.

As he knelt by the stream to splash water on his face, he sensed a presence. Startled, he reached for his hunting knife.

“Who are you? What are you doing here?” he demanded.

“I am Aha-ka-toon-ka—The Whispering Wind—of the Abenaki Indian Tribe. I am a medicine man, here to collect plants that thrive in the night. I saw your flashlight and thought someone might need help. You have nothing to fear from me,” the man replied.

Prabal was stunned. A person, let alone a Native American medicine man, was the last thing he expected to find on this remote mountainside. He had never even heard of an Abenaki reservation in this area.

Aha-ka-toon-ka, with his long hair, weather-beaten face, aquiline nose, and traditional attire, looked like a figure from another time. His presence exuded calm and kindness, dispelling Prabal’s fear.

“We have always been here, my son, and our spirits will always roam these mountains. In the great circle of life, no one enters and no one exits,” Aha-ka-toon-ka said.

“I see you’re struggling to light a fire. Without one, you won’t survive the night. Our Native American skills will come in handy.”

Prabal watched in awe as Aha-ka-toon-ka lit a fire using ancient tools. As he worked, he chanted an Abenaki hymn:

"Kassiwi Niona Enna Odakozik Chibaio Agaskwikok

Kizos Aalakws Nionakiya Alnobanogan Nionakiya"

The hymn, mingling with the wind's whispers and the stream's murmur, created a mystical atmosphere. “It’s almost eerie yet wonderful,” Prabal thought.

Wisdom of the Ancients

The fire’s warmth was a blessing. Prabal offered Aha-ka-toon-ka some brandy, but he refused. “My son, you don’t need intoxication to stay warm. The strength and conviction of your heart can provide all the energy you need. Conviction alone will keep your mind warm against this chilly gust or the gust tormenting your soul. Just listen to your heart and act on it.”

“How does he know? Is he reading my mind?” Prabal wondered.

“My son, consider me a reflection of your destiny and thoughts. Your thoughts shape your world. You are a slave to them. Listen to your heart to free yourself.”

Aha-ka-toon-ka’s words resonated deeply. “When in trouble, we Native Americans look to nature for answers. Look at the stars, listen to the wind’s rhythm, the stream’s flow, the eagle’s flight. Wah-kan-taw-wah created all nature’s elements in perfect harmony. The book of nature is the greatest source of wisdom. It has undergone countless revisions since creation. Read its signs to find answers to your troubles.”

Prabal found himself absorbing Aha-ka-toon-ka’s wisdom like a parched land soaking up rain. The words resonated with a truth that transcended time and culture. He felt as if a veil had been lifted, allowing him to see the interconnectedness of all things. The rhythm of the wind, the song of the stream, and the dance of the stars were all part of a larger symphony, one that he had been too preoccupied to notice.

“You see, my son, the answers are always there, woven into the fabric of nature itself. We must only learn to read them,” Aha-ka-toon-ka continued. “The stars above us tell stories of endurance and hope. The winds whisper tales of change and resilience. The waters remind us of life's flow, its cycles of birth, growth, and renewal.”

As they conversed, the sky began to shift. The inky blackness of night was interrupted by a shimmering curtain of light. The aurora borealis, with its ethereal dance of greens, pinks, and purples, spread across the heavens like a celestial tapestry.

The Aurora's Embrace

Prabal’s breath caught in his throat. The northern lights were more than just a natural phenomenon; they were a beacon of hope, a visual symphony that filled his heart with a profound sense of wonder and possibility. The colors undulated and twisted, painting the night with luminous splendor.

“Behold the aurora borealis,” Aha-ka-toon-ka said softly. “It is the Earth’s way of reminding us that even in the darkest times, there is beauty and hope. The lights dance in the sky, just as our spirits must dance through life’s trials.”

Prabal felt tears prick his eyes as he watched the magnificent display. The lights seemed to reach into his soul, washing away the grime of doubt and despair. He felt a renewal, a rebirth of spirit, as if the universe itself was assuring him that everything would be alright.

In that moment, the wisdom of the ancients, the lessons of nature, and the beauty of the aurora combined to forge a new clarity within him. He understood that his struggles were part of a larger journey, one that required patience, faith, and an open heart.

He wasn’t sure how long he had been watching the wonders in the sky, but when he turned to thank Aha-ka-toon-ka for the most wonderful words of wisdom he had ever learned – he realized that Aha-ka-toon-ka was gone.

Aha-ka-toon-ka disappeared as mysteriously just as he had appeared. From nowhere into nowhere.

By then, the dawn had broken and the sun appeared in the eastern horizon.

The Descent and Home Coming:

As Prabal embarked on his descent, a euphoric sense of enlightenment and hope swelled within him, like a symphony of liberation. The encounter with Aha-ka-toon-ka, that enigmatic apparition, lingered in his mind - a hallucination, a figment of his imagination, or a glimpse of the unknown? 

The unforgiving vastness of the wilderness, where temperatures plummeted to 21 degrees Fahrenheit and winds howled like a chorus of banshees, yet he survived without hypothermia,  had yielded its secrets to him. The impossible had become possible, as if the gods themselves had conspired to revive the ancient wisdom of the Abenaki tribe, thought to be extinct. The medicine man's words still resonated within him: "We native Americans read the book of nature for solutions when turmoil besets us."As he drove, the silence was punctuated only by the soft hum of the engine, a gentle accompaniment to his racing thoughts.

 

Reaching home after 9 hours of driving, he beheld his wife, her beauty frozen in contemplation, her gaze lost in the mirror's silvered glass. Was she seeking answers in the labyrinthine corridors of her own soul?

Prabal approached her with the stealth of a summer breeze, his arms enfolding her in a warmth that had long been absent. She reciprocated, her body yielding to his embrace like a leaf surrendering to the autumn wind. They stood thus, suspended in the silence, their hearts beating in tandem, the rhythm of their love rekindled like a flame that had never truly flickered out. Or perhaps, it was all just a product of his fevered imagination, a chimera born of solitude and the whispers of the devil in his mind. Yet, Agiocochook, the Home of the Great Spirit, had stirred something deep within him, reviving the symphony of their love, a harmony that would forever resonate through the chambers of his soul.

The Whispers of Barapani

 

Ranjan’s story

As Ranjan felt the cool wind brush against his chin while cruising on the winding roads of the Guwahati-Shillong highway, he couldn't help but wonder if the breeze could conceal the sweat and nervousness raging inside him. The verdant hills of Meghalaya stretched out around him, cloaked in mist, their lush greenery a stark contrast to the turmoil within his heart. He was on his way to Barapani to meet Sangeeta, the woman who had held his heart since their college days. The Royal Enfield beneath him wasn’t his own; he had borrowed it from a friend, hoping to maintain the illusion of success. He wanted Sangeeta to believe he was still serving in the army.

Since his dishonorable discharge from the Indian Army, Ranjan seldom bothered with haircuts or shaves. But for this occasion, he had groomed himself to resemble the proud Sergeant Major he once was, before his court-martial for refusing to carry out a Colonel's order to conduct a fake encounter in an insurgency-ridden area.

The memories of his past swirled around him as he rode, the rhythmic thrum of the motorbike a steady companion. He recalled his college days with Sangeeta in the mid-nineties, a time of both love and strife in a politically turbulent Assam. Their romance had blossomed amidst the chaos, a beacon of hope in a world of mistrust between the Bodos and the Assamese. Sangeeta's parents, however, disapproved of their relationship and forced her into an arranged marriage with an Assamese bureaucrat. Heartbroken, Ranjan joined the Assam Regiment, where he distinguished himself as a courageous soldier until his conscience led to his court-martial and dishonorable discharge. He could not bring himself to "eliminate a few civilians labeled as insurgents" just to increase the "kill count" as ordered by his Colonel.

Ranjan never married. After his discharge, he faced financial difficulties and adopted a disheveled appearance. Despite his own struggles, he kept track of Sangeeta, learning that her life had also been hard. Her husband, an alcoholic, routinely abused her and was eventually removed from service on corruption charges. Sangeeta had to take on multiple odd jobs to support her family.

The road twisted and turned through the hills, revealing glimpses of the serene Barapani Lake below, its waters shimmering under the afternoon sun. Although Ranjan had little to offer, he carried a bundle of notes carefully concealed in his duffle bag, hoping to lend a helping hand to Sangeeta. The thought of seeing her again filled him with a mix of excitement and anxiety, each mile bringing him closer to a long-awaited reunion.

Today, he looked very much like the proud soldier he once was, adorned with numerous service medals. He didn't want to burden Sangeeta with his woes, knowing she had enough of her own.

As the restaurant overlooking Barapani Lake approached, Ranjan could hear his own heartbeat thundering in his ears. The scenic beauty of the lake, surrounded by rolling hills and kissed by a gentle breeze, was a fitting backdrop for the emotions surging within him. The thought of seeing Sangeeta again, of perhaps rekindling their lost romance, made his heart race with a mixture of hope and fear.

---

Sangeeta’s story

Sangeeta stood in front of her mirror, carefully draping a beautiful mekhela chador around her, its delicate embroidery a testament to her Assamese heritage. She applied makeup with practiced precision, accentuating her striking features. Despite the strain etched into her face from years of struggle, she still radiated a remarkable beauty. Her heart fluttered with nervous anticipation; today, she would meet Ranjan, the man who had never left her thoughts.

She had borrowed a car from a friend for the occasion, complete with a driver, to maintain the illusion of a successful bureaucrat’s wife. Her own car was old and unreliable, and the thought of Ranjan seeing through her ruse made her stomach churn. She wanted to appear strong and prosperous, not weighed down by her own troubles. Today, she would conceal her woes behind a facade of elegance and poise.

As the car wound its way through the mist-covered hills of Meghalaya, Sangeeta gazed out at the breathtaking scenery. The verdant landscape, shrouded in a soft haze, seemed almost magical, a stark contrast to the turmoil of her life. The mist swirled around the peaks, lending an air of mystery and romance to the journey. She clutched her purse tightly, within which a bundle of notes lay hidden. She hoped to offer this small help to Ranjan, unaware that he, too, had come prepared to support her.

As the car approached the restaurant overlooking Barapani Lake, Sangeeta took a deep breath, steadying her racing heart. The lake shimmered under the afternoon sun, its serene waters a mirror to the sky. The picturesque setting, with its rolling hills and gentle breeze, felt like a scene from a dream. She wanted everything to be perfect, to show Ranjan that she had weathered life's storms with grace and dignity.

Stepping out of the car, she smoothed her mekhela chador and composed herself. Today, she was determined to be the confident, beautiful woman Ranjan had fallen in love with all those years ago. She didn’t want to burden him with her own sorrows, knowing he had endured so much himself. As she walked towards the restaurant, her heart pounded with anticipation, each step bringing her closer to a long-awaited reunion. The air was thick with the scent of blooming flowers, the misty hills providing a romantic backdrop to the emotions swirling within her.

---

The Reunion

Inside the restaurant, their eyes met, and for a moment, the years of separation melted away. They walked towards each other, their steps hesitant but filled with hope. When they finally stood face to face, there were no words, just a shared understanding of the struggles and heartache they had endured.

They sat down and began to talk, their conversation naturally drifting back to their college days. They laughed as they reminisced about their favorite tea stall near the campus, where they spent countless hours over cups of steaming chai, debating politics and dreaming of a future together. They recalled the cultural festivals where they danced to the rhythm of Bihu songs, and the serene evenings by the Brahmaputra River, where they would watch the sunset and share their dreams.

Their romance had been a respite from the surrounding chaos, filled with tender moments and secret rendezvous. They remembered the stolen kisses behind the old library, the whispered promises under the banyan tree, and the handwritten letters slipped into each other's bags, carrying words of love and longing.

But when the conversation shifted to the present, the atmosphere subtly changed. Sangeeta spoke of her husband’s supposed success, glossing over the reality of his disgrace and her own struggles. Ranjan, in turn, talked about his thriving business ventures, hiding the truth of his financial woes and the dishonorable discharge from the army. Each knew the other was lying, but neither wanted to shatter the fragile illusion, understanding that the truth might wound the other's pride.

As they chatted, Ranjan subtly diverted Sangeeta’s attention to a scenic view outside the window. Seizing the moment, he slipped the bundle of notes he had brought into her purse, careful not to draw attention to the act. It was a small gesture, but one he hoped would ease her burdens just a little.

When the sun began to set, casting a warm, golden glow over the lake, Sangeeta looked at Ranjan with a wistful smile. “Do you remember how we used to ride your bike back in college?” she asked. “Would you take me for a ride, just like old times?”

Ranjan’s heart swelled with nostalgia. “Of course,” he replied, standing up and extending his hand to her. They walked out to the borrowed Royal Enfield, the air filled with the scent of blooming flowers and the distant calls of birds returning to their nests.

As they rode through the misty hills of Meghalaya, the wind in their hair and the hum of the motorbike beneath them, Sangeeta felt a sense of freedom she hadn’t experienced in years. She held onto Ranjan tightly, the warmth of his back a comforting presence. Under the cover of the ride, she deftly slipped the bundle of notes she had brought into the duffle bag slung over Ranjan’s shoulder, ensuring he wouldn’t notice until later.

When they returned to the restaurant, the twilight sky painted in shades of pink and purple, they both felt an unspoken bond had been renewed. They knew they couldn’t change the past or their current circumstances, but they had given each other something invaluable: hope and a reminder of better days.

As they said their goodbyes, there was a sense of peace between them. They had lied to protect each other’s dignity, but in their actions, they had shown the depth of their care. With a final embrace, they parted ways, each carrying a piece of the other’s strength and a renewed spirit to face the challenges ahead.

---

The Ballad

In the quiet of the twilight, 

Two hearts found solace anew, 

Beneath the misty Meghalayan hills, 

Where love's old whispers grew.

Though paths may part and dreams may fade, 

In this serene, enchanting land, 

Their souls entwined, forever bound, 

By the touch of a loving hand.

Why American definition of Conservatism vs Liberalism is killing democracy

I was at a party a few months back.  After a few drinks, as it always happens in the social gatherings in my circle, the topics shifted to political discussions.  The talk centered around how history has shown that  - rightist attitude eventually leads to fascism - which ultimately lead to the killing of millions during Hitler and Mussolini.

In America,  rightist are associated with Conservatives/Republicans. A gentleman - a firm supporter of the Republican party and the Trump administration - remarked that "liberals" have equally smeared history when it came to mass killings. 

"What about Pol Pot and Stalin or Mao?" - he remarked.  "They clearly were not conservatives , they were communists and hence liberals ".

He was clearly exhibiting what majority of the Americans - thanks to a two party system - have been indoctrinated to believe in the recent years and unfortunately - this convoluted definition of conservatives versus liberals have propagated from the US to the rest of the world just as American concept of fast food and soda.

Oxford dictionary defines liberals as  one who is "willing to understand and respect other people’s behavior, opinions, etc., especially when they are different from your own; believing people should be able to choose how they behave". Conservatives on the other hand are defined as  those with "Commitment to traditional values and ideas with opposition to change or innovation".

While growing up in the backwaters of remote North Eastern part of India - reading about the likes of Raja Ram Mahon Roy, Dr B.R. Ambedkar, Mustafa Kemal Ataruk, Iswar Chandra Vidya Sagar, Martin Luther King - I had formed by own image of liberals as those who would question rigid social norms and customs through rational thinking and advocate for radical social change.  Liberals were the ones who advocated and carried out sweeping social changes by promoting abolition of stringiest caste hierarchy, opposed racism, brought an end to sati (burning of widow), promoted secularism.

Some of the most charismatic liberals would include Abrahm Linchon (cause he questioned and abolished the social order of slavery), Jesus Christ and Hazarat Muhammed (peace be upon him) cause they sought to question and change the social order of that age.

On the other hand - conservatives were the ones who would resist any changes to the established order. Conservatives would practice caste system, burn the likes of Galileo, advocate killing the heretics and the infidels - the likes of Wahabis and Talibans.

However, when it comes to America,  Conservatism and Liberalism has little to do with the dictionary definition of the words which I came to believe in as I was learning the English language.

In the American context - the difference between Conservatives versus the Liberals is basically in the involvement of government when it comes to the fiscal policies and the role of the government. Conservatives believe in lesser government control with matters related to trade and commerce.  On the other hand - liberals believe that more government regulations in trade and commerce and involvement of the government is needed for social justice.

The absence of strong third party (Libertarian's who few Americans associate with when it comes to voting) - forces Americans to associate with either Republicans (who identify with the American definition of Conservatives) or Democrats (liberals) who appear to be drifting apart like never before in the entire history of American democracy.

  
A hardcore conservative in America is more likely to be someone who would oppose tighter control over guns, promote traditional Christian beliefs about homosexuality and women's right on abortion, demand lesser tax, question the judgement of scientist about climate change, more spending on military, likely to less concerned about social equality and minority rights (often tagging them as socialist outlook).

Whereas a hardcore liberal is more likely to propose tighter gun control, advocate for women's and minority rights, be more concerned about environment, social equality and would not mind higher taxes to support a government that would deliver social welfare for lesser fortunate groups - such as African Americans and other minority groups.

However - most of the Americans  - are neither hardcore "liberals" or "conservatives" in the American sense.  While I believe that when it comes to environmental protection or delivering social welfare a larger governmental involvement is needed - when it comes to innovation and  entrepreneurship the private sector definitely has a bigger role to play than the government.

However, the two party system in the US - has created a mindset that if you do not believe in all any of the popular beliefs of the conservatives - you got to be a liberal (you are either with us or against us).

This attitude and mindset of  Americans have greatly stratified America into two separate boxes with walls that seems to have grown so much thicker that every statement made by one segment is viewed with suspicion by the other side.  

Liberals are labelled as Marxist or even Communist of the Stalinist/Maoist flavor - which in the classical definitions of the English language - are at 180 degree apart from liberalism.

And unfortunately - this distorted American version of  Conservatism vs Liberalism is gaining ground around the world.

It is indeed lamentable that  the US which awed the world into democracy when its constitution  proclaimed a governance - "by the people of the people and for the people"  is now killing democracy around the world with its distorted definition of Conservative vs Liberals. 

The Wonder years of growing up in Kokrajhar

Growing up in the sleepy little town of Kokrajhar in the 70s - before Assam agitation was a bliss.

For those who are not familiar with Kokrajhar - in those days Kokrajhar used to be sleepy little subdivisional town in the western edge of Assam with a population not exceeding 20,000. Geographically Kokrajhar is in the Terai region close to the foot hills of Bhutan. The subdivision offered a rich flora and fauna - with an abundance of green vegetation with plenty of streaming rivers, rich wild life such as golden langur, leopards, tigers, wild elephants, deers, the famed Himalayan hornbill. The forest of Ultapani in the foothills of Bhutan does boast the most diverse collection of butterflies in the world.

The diversity in flora and fauna was matched with its ethnic diversity as well. The main ethnic group - Boro Kacharis lived in peaceful co-existence with Koch-Rajbongshis, Rabha, Garo, Bengali, Nath, Nepalis, Santhals, Biharis - each contributing to the cultural diversity of the subdivision.

Crime was virtually unheard of.  So much so that Assam state police personnel - when posted in Kokrajhar - considered it as a leisure posting.  State government officers from all over the state treasured their posting in Kokrajhar town and many of them settled down in that peaceful town.

This was the Kokrajhar of 70s and early eighties where my precious pre teen and teen age years were spent.

Childhood in this town was no less than a blessing.  Although Kokrajhar was very poor in terms of sports and other recreational infrastructure - the youths in Kokrajhar invented their own ways to keep themselves engaged in a variety of activities.

There was no dearth of empty fields - where we used to assemble after school for a game of football in the summer, for cricket and badminton in the winter. Traditional games like kabaddi,  tang-guti (gili-danda) used to happen round the year.

The school I attended - Kokrajhar Boys Government Higher Secondary - was very famous for its football team ( National Subrata Cup Champion) and its NCC (National Cadet Corps) program. Our school had the unique distinction of winning the best NCC team in the annual state wise camp organized in Narengi Army Camp for more than 10 times in a row.  Many cadets represented the Assam state in the Republic Day Parade in New Delhi and eventually went on to join the Indian Armed Forces.

Those of us - who participated in the NCC program - used to assemble for basic military drill and march in the school ground after the academic instructions.  The biggest attraction was the warm Kachoori or Samosa that was served after the basic drill as a refreshment.

Bi-cycling was also a big part of growing up. We would often form a group and take a 8 km ride to the Baukhungri hills which offered some excellent hiking and picnic spots. In the New Year eve, we would pitch a tarpaulin tent and feast out. Small games such as rabbits or pigeons hunted with sling-shots or bows added to the menu.  There were leopards and reportedly even tigers in that forest, but who cared -- we carried our khukris and sling-shots :) But lucky us - we never had any encounter with those big cats.

That was the era when "Enter The Dragon" and Bruce-Lee became a craze. Kokrajhar did not yet have a martial arts school.  But a cousin of mine did procure a book called "Manual of Karate" by Masoyama - which we studied back to back.  Four of us would assemble in a nearby semi forest adjacent to the town where we had dug out a "dojo" on the ground and practice Kyokushinkai style of Karate going by instructions in the book. That resourceful cousin of mine - thanks to his elder brother who was in St Edmunds, Shillong - even procured the famous "Guerilla Warfare" by Che Guevara. We studied that book as well and played war games with dummy rifles carved out of wood. We learnt how to dig in foxholes, lay booby traps, set up ambush and basic survival techniques. We even became quite adapt in rope climbing, Tarzan rope swing techniques. Every other day -- we would have full contact sparring without any gear and come back home with bruises and bloodied noses :) We used to call our 4 member club as "Hidden Hunters" or HH for short. We all aspired to be commandos in the Indian Army. We were in grade 8.

And book lovers we were ! Devoid of the gadgets such as video games or TVs, we literally feasted on comics and story books. Though Kokrajhar was a small town, it had a decent library which had a nice collection of Assamese and Bengali books which we literally devoured. Also it had a small little bookstore called "Binoda Bhandar" - which used to sell Phantom and Mandrake comics published by a publisher called Indrajal Comics.  My father used to occasionally bring Asterix Oblix, Tin Tin and War Comics from Guwahati - which were of course special treats. 

The only commercial form of entertainment available in Kokrajhar township was movies. At one point of time Kokrajhar boasted of 3 movie theaters which screened mostly Hindi movies. Movie halls were always very crowded and one had to indulge in literally a wresting of sorts to manage movie tickets.  One famous IPS officer - Daulat Singh Negi, SP in Kokrajhar - had quipped "The biggest policing job was maintaining a queue in movie ticket counters" . The blockbusters of that era were "Sholay", "Julie", "Yado Ki Barat", "Noorie", "Hum Kissisey Kum Nahin".  A few of the naughty and adventurous ones would bunk classes and take a train ride to nearby town of Bongaigaon  where for some reason movies were released a bit early compared to Kokrajhar.

Festivals were always fun of course.  Be it the Bihu, Durga Puja, Kali Puja or Saraswati Puja. Saraswati Puja used to be my favorite. Well, not because of any religious reason - but mainly because you were not supposed to do any class work on that day and it provided us with the rare opportunity to make a trip to the Girls' School - where the girls would be dressed in their best "grown up costumes". It was sort of our "Valentine Day".  Days before the Puja -- we would work to collect bamboos to set up the pandal, collect banana leaves for serving the "khisdi". We could of course procure the bamboos or  the banana leaves from our neighborhood.  But then it was always a fun to do a 8 km hike to Baukhungri hills with khukri to collect those from the forest. We would bring the idol - and camp out in the school on the pretext of guarding the idol where we would cook "khisdi".

The story of those teen age days would go incomplete unless I mention about group tete-e-tete sessions we had around the hang-out spots in different parts of the town.  One popular spots were "Akaashbaani" - the shop that used to sell radios and gramophone records  in near the police point. They literally used to blast out the popular numbers of that era. Us teen agers would hangout listening to the blaring music. Other popular spot was the railway overpass and many culverts in the township. Every evening, different groups of teenagers would assemble in their favorite hangout joints and literally discuss any topics you could even imagine - from movies to sports to academics to their heart throbs of the opposite sex.  What was always missing was the politics.  And true to Kokrajhar's reputation of being a town of communal harmony - the groups of teen agers were always multi ethnic.

Such was Kokrajhar of the 70s and early 80s - the wonder years of childhood I would not trade with anything else.

Heavenly Nightmare

Last night woke up with a terrible nightmare.

My time was over. Well, that wasnt that bad after all. 

But something terrible happened afterwards. 

Clerical error put me in the wrong bus and I was in heaven instead of hell- where I had so meticulously reserved a spot.

As I reached the Heaven, I immediately knew was in a wrong place. 

There were true blue faithful Christians, Muslims, Hindus and Jews. Exactly the crowd I struggled so hard to stay away from during my brief life.

The Library was awful - just 4 boring books - each of which claimed to contain everything you need to know.

First stepped into the Christian zone. They were still euphoric about the God agreeing to their demand of painting every corner of their quarter with bright white paint - which they claimed will make their quarter great again.

They were regular church going evangelical conservatives and hardcore NRA members who swore by their 2nd amendment and right to carry assault weapons along with their King James version. They thought war was essential for economy and proudly declared themselves as "Pro Life" . They were hell bent on building a wall in their Christian Quarter to keep the Hindus and Muslim residents of heaven out of their zone and wanted to make the Hindus and Muslims pay for it. They only believed in a Judeo-Christian Heaven. Others like me were considered as the unwanted intruders  to a Judeo-Christian heaven. 

I hurried out of the Christian zone and stepped into the Hindu zone. There were people in khaki chaddis who have heroically took part in pitched battles while defending Gaumatas. Theirs was the only zone in heaven which had great looking bars with cool hookah offering smokes of marijuana and bhang brownies. Marijuana initiated the take off and the bhang in the brownie helped ascent to a height that I never scaled before. 

Now was the time to taste the beer. The Apsara at the counter appeared every bit of the Mohini - which Vatsyana has so graphically narrated in the Kamasutra. I asked her for a large pint and she obliged with a mysterious smile. And then 

!!! A THUD AND A THOUSAND YUCKS !!!!

What the heck was that ? Did she just say that was gaumutra (cow piss) ? Quick -- tell me -- where is the rest room and the sink ?

As I emerged out from the rest room after emptying out my bowel, I could see the commotion coming out from the Muslim Quarter. The latest batch of fedayeen members from ISIS were clearly unhappy and loudly expressing their displeasure. They had run short of virgin maidens, after all 72 "houris" for each could surely constraint the supply logistics .

Someone whispered in my ear -- "You better scoot" . This bunch of desperados could even target unsuspecting male denizens of jannat from the south to vent out their frustration. Terrified -- I darted out as I saw one of these fedayeen slowly land his steps towards my direction.

As I was stepping into the Jewish quarter -- my good and faithful Dog Mako came to my rescue. He realized I was sweating and tossing and turning all over in a terrible nightmare. 

And I was so thankful that he used his good judgement to lick me all over my face to wake me out of that hell called the heaven where all these believers land up.

Case of a mistaken identity : my brush with law

Well, of late there has been several news headlines centered around Indians from the North East part of India subjected to racial profiling in the rest of India because of their oriental looks. The North Eastern Indians form about 3% of the Indian population and a good chunk of them have oriental features and they are often taunted as "Chinkies" in the rest of India.  The latest brouhaha occurred during the last assembly election in Delhi when the ruling party in center (the federal government) addressed the North Eastern residents in Delhi as "immigrants".

I have spent a good deal of time in various parts of India away from the North East India -- and luckily I have never been subjected to any kind of racial profiling.  Even during my long stay in the United States of America - I have not encountered any racial prejudice.

Well, except perhaps one incident - which I am not sure if you can call a case of racial profiling.

Way back in our early days at New Jersey - before we were blessed with our kids - we (me and my wife Malabika) used to reside in an apartment complex in Plainsboro, New Jersey.  We both used to work in New York city and used to take the train from Princeton Junction.

We used to park our car in the train station at Princeton Junction and we used to meet up at the station in the evening and would share a ride home, We were quite party animals and every Friday evening we would directly head out to party (after meeting up at the station) and return home at the wee hours of the morning and wake up really late in the afternoon on Saturdays.

On one of such Saturday's - we woke up with a rather forceful knock on the door.

"Who on earth could dare to sabotage our blissful slumber of a lazy Saturday morning" - crossed my mind before I consulted my watch which showed 11:00 AM.

As I waddled through the unkempt apartment rubbing my sleepy eyes - the knock only got stronger and when I opened the door -- saw this police officer from the township at the door.

"May I help you officer" - I inquired with a distinct annoyance which I am sure was difficult to hide.

"May I come in" - he demanded.

"Sure of course" -- well, did I have a choice (?)

 "Do you go to New York for work?" - he inquired.

"Yes.  Me and my wife we both commute to New York for work."

"Did you take a cab in New York yesterday? May be you dropped something in the cab?"

"Well, I did not take a cab in New York yesterday.  But my wife did. She was late catching the train and rather than the usual subway to the New York Penn station, she hired a cab from her work to the Penn Station. Do you want to talk to her?"

"No.  I am asking YOU" - the officer replied.

The officer continued - "See someone hired a cab from New York to this apartment complex last night and reached around 1:30 AM in the morning. He said he needs to pick up money from his apartment and told the cabbie to wait. He came towards this apartment and disappeared. Then the cabbie called us. The description of the passenger matched yours."

"And what might that description be?" - I demanded.

"A guy in mid twenties from India who goes to New York for work and lives in this side of the apartment complex. We asked your neighbor if any Indian lives in this part of the complex and he pointed that a young Indian couple lives in this apartment who commute to New York. We came and knocked at the door but no one opened."

"Of course we did not open the door only because we were out partying and did not return home till 3:30 AM in the morning."

The officer realized he did not have much ground to pursue the allegation and left.

And we continued with our daily routine until the next Wednesday.  When we reached home and checked the voicemail in our answering machine of the phone, there was a message from the township detective and the message was quite threatening.

"Mr. Brahma - we do not want to embarrass you by coming to your apartment. But we believe we have strong evidence against you for jumping the fare with the cabbie and you better comedown to the township police station".

We immediately rushed to the township police station and the detective took me to the interrogation room.  He basically asked me the same question over and over again and stated - "Look Mr. Brahma, it is just a matter of 150-200 dollars of cab fare and if you admit, we can end the matter right here. You are in mid 20s, an Indian, go to New York to work and live in that section of the apartment complex.  That is too much of a coincidence."

And I kept on repeating the same statement I had been making - "No it wasn't me and why should I admit. I was at my friends place at the party and you can check with my host. I might even be in the recordings of his new camcorder where you will see me doing some wild dance moves at the party. "

Then he said - "Let me take a mug shot of you and show it to the cabbie - who happens to be a Pakistani." and took my mug shot.

That's when I got little scared.  I wouldn't recognize the mug shot of the cabbie I had hitched a ride the next day if it was shown to me.  What if the cabbie forgets the face of the passenger and says it might have been me ?

The next day I did not go to work but contacted a lawyer just in case. I spoke to my friends with whom we partied on the fateful night and requested them to come to my deference should the necessity arise.  I also spoke to my neighbor Mike who had told the police the apartment (ours) where an Indian couple that commute to New York reside.

Any how, the detective was kind enough to call a few days later and declared I was off the hook.

He said -- " We had shown your mug shot to the Pakistani cabbie and on seeing your face -- he remarked - 'Come on officer.  I told you he was an Indian. THIS GENTLEMAN IN THE PICTURE IS A CHINESE'".


Postlude:

After a few days - the gentleman(??) tried the same trick once again.  This time my neighbor Mike was outside his apartment smoking a cigarette, He noticed a young Indian man of mid 20s getting out of the cab, making the cab wait and heading towards my apartment. He had become a little suspicious and since he knew what had happened earlier, decided to peek where the gentleman was headed. The gentleman headed towards my apartment, but changed course and headed to an apartment in another section of the complex. The cabbie again waited in vain and called the police. Only this time, my neighbor Mike led the cabbie and the police to the "right" apartment and the gentleman was caught red handed.

I did not think it was worthwhile finding out what happened to that gentleman.

Kokrajhar Diaries : The Introduction

For those who are not able to place Kokrajhar in the map - it is a medium sized town (population about 35000) in the North Eastern part of India. In fact Kokrajhar is the first major town when you enter into the North Eastern India through the Indian Railways.

The very name of Kokrajhar today evokes ethnic strife, insurgency, disturbance, bandhs etc. For past two decades the image of Kokrajhar has been transformed from obscurity to national headlines (and some times international) often for reasons which were not reflective of the qualities its denizens were known for. Though backward in terms of economic development and infrastructure - Kokrajhar was well known for communal harmony (where the majority inhabitants -the Bodos lived in complete harmony with other communities such as Rajbongshis, Bengalis, Kalitas, Deshi Muslims, Rabhas, Adivashis, Biharis, Bengalis), a temperate climate, low crime rate, abundance of flora and fauna, finest timbers, some finest picnic spots in the dooars (the foothills of Bhutan), football (my school Kokrajhar Government Higher Secondary had won the state championship for football multiple times and even the national championship - the Subrata Cup) and producing some finest soldiers who served the Indian Army since the colonial days (the NCC wing of Kokrajhar Government Higher Secondary had won the best team award in the annual NCC camp held at Narengi Army camp near Guwahati many times).

Government employees (mostly state government employees and teachers employed in the educational establishments of the town) - cherished their idyllic posting in Kokrajhar and  many of them had purchased land and property to settle down in Kokrajhar town. In Kokrajhar you could find people from all over Assam, Bengal and Bihar who had settled down for the idyllic and peaceful environment it had to offer and started calling her their home. 

Government apathy and some complex socio-economic dynamics have transformed the "abode of peace" into an area which has witnessed an undue share of political turmoil often coupled with "ethnic clashes, insurgency and human rights abuse".

The purpose of this "Kokrajhar Diaries" is not to get into a socio-economic-political discussion on what forces actually turned this "abode of peace" into what it is today - but to provide a glimpse of those "wonder years" which our generation had experienced growing up in Kokrajhar.

Those who were born in mid sixties and have spent their formative years in seventies and eighties in Kokrjhar, have witnessed the transformation of this nondescript idyllic town into a bustling town with brazen commercialization and corrupt nouveau rich flaunting their acquired riches - but at the same time pushing some of the intrinsic qualities of Kokrajhar into oblivion.

Flora and fauna of Kokrajhar area has depleted at an alarming rate. There are hardly any forests to support the trade of the finest quality of timber and wooden furniture Kokrajhar was well known for. Gone are the days when you would see parents allowing their children to explore the surroundings on their own to play and make friendship with other children solely based on their mental compatibility in complete disregard to their ethnic background.  Gone are the days when murders and other major crimes were absolutely rare.

If I could relive my childhood -- it would only be in the idyllic town of Kokrajhar in the era we were fortunate to grow up.

In "Kokrajhar Diaries" I would attempt at creating fictions based on those "wonder years"  of late sixties and seventies when it was a blessing to grow up in the once "abode of peace".


Please stay tuned for "Kokrajhar Diaries : The wonder years".